Years ago my husband and I were traveling from London to Paris on the train
early one morning after an all night flight across the Atlantic. I remember
looking out the window through my jet lagged, sleep deprived eyes and being
enchanted by the tranquility of the French countryside shrouded in the morning
mist. The lush rolling hills, dotted with farm houses and small villages
called out to me and I wished this was our destination. We went on to Paris and
had a wonderful time, but I have kept the image of that peaceful landscape with
me and hoped to return someday.
Someday was last month, Oct, 2013, as we returned to Paris,
mainly to eat at the great restaurants for a few days, then pick up a car and venture into the 'real' France. We had no expectations or ideas about what we would
experience, but I had done my research and chosen what I thought would be
fascinating places to use as bases while we made our way to Basel, Switzerland
where we joined a river cruise.
My favorite pastime is reading history and especially
historical fiction. The events in some of these books took place in the
magnificent chateaus and castles of the Loire Valley. I had images of these
estates in my mind and was thrilled to be walking the same paths as the
history-makers I had read so much about: Chenonceaux (above) with its arches spanning
the river, Cheverny which still houses much of its original furnishings, and
the immense castle at Chambord (below), each spectacular in its unique way.
For us, France is in large part about the food. The countess
recommended wonderful restaurants where we ended our days of touring with locally
produced meals and wine. What could be better? Maybe being served dinner at
Chateau de La Barre with the count and countess, eating on the families antique
china and drinking local wines from their 600 year old stemware? The dining
room was filled with magnificent furnishings down to the linens embroidered
with the family crest and of course the food was delectable. Our fairytale
evening ended with after-dinner drinks served by the count and enjoyed by the
fireplace, a perfect ending to our visit to the Loire Valley. 
From the Chateau our route towards Basel, Switzerland took
us into Burgundy and the medieval village of Noyers. I wanted us to experience
local life and staying in Noyers was very local indeed. The village was tiny
and perfectly preserved as it was hundreds of years ago: narrow cobbled
streets, old stone buildings, and families who have lived there for
generations. Upon arrival at our B&B we rang the bell at the large wooden gate and were
greeted by a friendly, English speaking Australian. Her story is for another
blog, but we soon became fast friends and since we were the only guests, she
went out touring with us, showed us her restored 800-year house, and
introduced us around the village. 
We drove around Burgundy and enjoyed the lovely vineyards
and villages, tasting wines and of course eating the wonderful cheeses and
fresh produce. The fruit was sweet and bursting with flavor, and during this
time we learned why French food is so superior. I had always thought it was the
French chefs with their rich sauces and complicated recipes, but driving
through the farmland of Burgundy we noticed the dark, moist soil and commented
that it looked like the potting soil we purchase at the nursery. France happens
to be blessed with this luscious, nutrient rich soil naturally, along with
regular and abundant rainfall, making for ideal farming and raising of
livestock. Now I know why I love to eat and drink wine in France.
To be continued
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